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pgrey
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Joined 9 years ago
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Re: text messages
If you’re on an Android platform, messages.google.c@mworks fine (yes, I obscured it to prevent tagging here), and has worked for MANY years now, on pretty much any platform that’s reasonably secure, you can pair it to the Google Messages app. If you’re on iOS I’m pretty sure there are iOS compatible ways to do this, but I’m not sure they extend beyond that platform.112Views0likes0CommentsRe: Data service signficantly decreased for the last week - can't use channel B66 anymore
My B66 signalstrength is oddly low today (-108- -112dBm, averaged over a few minutes), too, given that two nearby (0.5mi, 2.5mi) towers seem to be connecting fine with reasonable service (couple of tests at about 80/20, latency in the 30s). I wouldn’t lock the bands like that, either, how will you know if something being worked on is fixed or similar, are you constantly scanning? If you put most Android phones into Battery Saver mode, it’ll often default to LTE anyway, since it’s more power-efficient at this point, but you won’t be locked out of 5G, necessarily. Your example of having been locked to 2/66 is a good demonstration here, how in the heck are you going to know if the B66 signal is back? Some apps are decent for this, like Network Cell Info Lite (no relationship other than using it for quite a few years now) are set-able to monitor/notify you, but they’re tough on mobile battery, in that mode, IME.9Views0likes0CommentsRe: any one else not receiving texts randomly
There was an RCS deployment problem a couple of months ago (around 2/24 for core Android 14 on current Pixel devices), with regards to a specific Android 14 build-update. This may be just now trickling down to firmware releases on TMo phones, maybe, possibly (only a tech with access could verify this). Has anyone tried flushing the app cache for Messages, and Play Services, assuming an Android device(s) here? This often allows messages blocked by a singular cache problem to be received, in the above scenario. Disabling and re-enabling RCS (under Settings, in the Messages app) can also help trigger the push. As far as I know, this affected users across all/most carriers, it was just that the updates were deployed at different times, so it looked like it was one carrier experiencing it at once, say if a deployment updated a bunch of S23-series devices (just as an example).36Views1like0CommentsRe: mesh access point
Try connecting using an Ethernet cable, and see if you can adopt it that way. Once that’s working (assuming you don’t have Ethernet cabling to where you want the other AP (mesh unit) to broadcast, wired is ALWAYS a better choice, even generally if the AP is only partway to the desired location), try unplugging the Ethernet and moving it progressively further away from the Gateway. There’s a limit, around -60dBm or so, where things will fall off pretty fast, in terms of reliable connectivity (you can use a WiFI app on an Android device to test the signal strength at a given location). Even at <= -60dBm, you’re getting half-signal, given the wireless backhaul. So, if you get say 100Mbps wireless throughput at the location of the AP, devices connecting to that AP will get a max of 50Mbps (that’s 50 shared too, amongst any/all devices using that AP). Meshing is okay if it’s the only option, but it’s far from a perfect solution...86Views0likes0CommentsRe: pin
Reset PIN. This is basically what you need to do, if you’ve lost this. If you use a password-manager, it’s a great idea to store this along with your T-Mobile credentials, assuming you’re talking about your T-Mobile account PIN here. If you’re talking about your (i)Phone PIN, you can bail yourself out if you’ve previously associated it with a computer, and you have access to said computer. If not, you have to simply reset, and (hopefully) use a backup to restore. This is a decent tutorial on those options:Forgot iPhone or iPad passcode? 6 ways to reset it safely (idownloadblog.com)16Views0likes0CommentsRe: How to enable and disable my networks on Home Internet
Having concurrent 2.4 and 5 (and 6GHz) should NOT affect each other, they’re on completely different wavelengths. I’d suggest doing a basic WiFi survey (lots of great YT videos on this), and adjust your 2.4 and 5 channels, based on the results, which will also likely increase the reliability/throughput of both radios. On 2.4 you will want to stick to 20Mhz channel-widths, and on 5 you want to stick to 40 or 80Mhz (NOT 160) widths, for a good combination of range/performance, from both. For 2.4 you want to end up on channels 1, 6, or 11 (the least busy based on the survey), and for 5 you want non-overlapping channels, see this chart. If you have additional APs (wired or meshed), make sure they aren’t overlapping by more than 60dBm or so, and ideally are on separate and the least-busy channel (for other radios near each AP), if the APs are wired (if meshed, you likley have to leave the 5MHz channels the same or they can’t mesh between APs).38Views0likes0CommentsRe: Website Assets Won't Load with T-Mobile Home Internet... Sometimes
@HatorriThe VPN and Nintendo are never going to be a great experience, due to CG-NAT. If you can use IPv6 exclusively (assuming all sides of the connections support this), it’s less of an issue (CG-NAT is somewhat subverted), but things still cycle, so you won’t have a super consistent connection, in the long run. You’re basically sharing a public IP(s), which most secure VPNs won’t accept these days, and the console is trying to treat your IP as stable, which it’s not, at least not for long. Creating a basic VPN tunnel, on a router, using something like NordVPN to a local host will help, bug again, only for awhile, the VPN will eventually get kicked off as well and need to reconnect. On the Ethernet PC that won’t go to basic sites, I’d reset that adapter (from the Control Panel) disable and re-enable it, or reinstall the driver, checking for updated drivers at the same time. This sounds like a cached DNS or similar issue, which the reset would “fix”, by removing all the cached data (there are other ways to do this, via command-line, which I’m happy to post if you want to try these, first).42Views0likes0CommentsRe: Does Internet Price Go Up If You No Longer Have A Cell Phone?
From all the pricing I’ve seen, you definitely get a substantial discount if you have >1 service. Getting by without basic texting/mobile-access is quite difficult these days, IME, you need a way to get 2FA texts for some things and a way to run a MFA Authenticator app for others. You can use a security key (such as a Yubi key, one example) but the support is still somewhat limited, at this point. You can run Authentication apps on most tablet devices, using home internet data, certainly, but again support is limited and sometimes requires a text to configure, or as a fallback. Not having 2FA of some sort on your “critical” stuff, such as email, mobile-account, financials, and a few others is pretty sketchy; if someone compromises it (which is almost a “when instead of if” at this point, if you have a simple credential for login), not only will you lose control of that account and whatever’s associated with it, but you’ll have a VERY difficult time regaining control. I’d suggest just getting a low-cost prepaid plan or something and combining that with Home Internet, simple, cheap, and covers all the bases.30Views1like0CommentsRe: Turn off Wifi?
Pentiumii wrote: Thank you so much. with the combined information I have been able to turn off the radios and fairly confident that I can turn them back on. I purchased the flint to invoke failover with two data inputs. I have a ton to learn about the flint, but I believe it will be awesome once I can get vpn working. I had so many radios on from the two sources, the flint, and then my orbi that I was gettin a ton of interference. Yeah, in general you want one “system” of radios, with multiple APs like that. Ideally, they should be the same vendor so that roaming works, between them, and tuned for signal strength, such that they only overlap at about 60 or dBm. Not having them set up this way will cause strange client behavior, as your client devices try to sort out which of the many concurrent signals are the best one, which can be a series of failures, basically, if there are overlapping strong signals. You’ll want to tune both the 2.4 and 5GHz radios, separately/per-AP, for the best possible performance. There are many great YT videos on AP tuning, for reference.86Views1like0CommentsRe: Turn off Wifi?
You *might* be able to route through the Flint router, IF it supports a Policy Based Routing schema or you set up the port-forwarding for whatever the modem requires (between the VLAN and your WAN segments). If your router has an obvious way to do this, or you want to dig into whatever forwarding the TMo Gateway, then you’ll be able to access it through the secondary (Flint) router (ports or wireless) connection. I can explain how to do this with several SMB (Unifi, Cisco, et.) router-platforms, but I have no exposure to the whatever lineup/manufacturer the Flint router is from. Posting on their forums is probably the best way to determine how to do this, on that platform, IME, since the people there will be familiar with the necessary forwarding/routing for that platform. Or, just plug your laptop/whatever into the TMo Gateway, when you want to make changes on it, simpler, but less elegant, I suppose. Edit: I see now, that’s a GL-iNet router, rebranded (the MT6000 model). That’s a good platform (I use one of their setups as a travel-router for VPN back to my home-Unifi VPNand for Tailscale), and I’m confident if you search around and/or ask this in their forums you’ll find an answer to this.18Views0likes0Comments